Japan’s matsutake dishes depend increasingly on imports
日本のマツタケ料理を支える輸入品トレンド・流行
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A serving of matsutake in Japan can carry a price of ¥5,000 to ¥10,000 per 100 grams. Imports account for more than 90% of the market, and China’s share exceeds 60%. Imports from the United States and Canada have also increased. These figures place an international supply behind dishes associated with Japanese red pine forests.
Japan’s domestic harvest was 12,000 tonnes in 1941 and 3,500 tonnes in 1960. The harvest has declined over 50 years, with connections to pine-wilt beetles and neglected pine forests. Matsutake grow in Japanese red pine forests, and cultivation techniques have not been established. That leaves the condition of these forests closely connected to the domestic supply.
In the kitchen, matsutake appear in takikomi-gohan, a Japanese rice dish prepared with the mushrooms, and suimono, a soup that also uses matsutake. Another preparation is dobin-mushi, which uses the mushrooms with dashi stock and sudachi citrus juice. Matsutake are also used in sumibi-yaki, a charcoal-grilled dish.